dyed finish

A finish given to fabrics woven from dyed yams to obtain a full handle without the colours bleeding.

The true hollands are made from flax yams. It originally was a very fine white linen used for shirts, but today this is not made. Brown Holland - 36-in. to 39-in., 48 ends and 48 picks per inch, loom state. White Holland - This is brown holland bleached and soft finished, and used for towels, linings, etc. Blind Hollands - 32-in. to 52-in. wide, coloured yarns, glazed finish, also in piece-dyed styles. All the above are made in numerous qualities, from flax yams about 32's lea warp and weft. The cotton imitations also vary greatly in quality, and the two cloths given are very fair standards, 40-in. to finish 37-in., 64 ends and 60 picks per inch, 28's T., 40's W., bleached and glazed. Width 32-in. to 48-in., 60 ends and 60 picks per inch, 28's T., 40's W., woven from dyed yarns in stripes and checks. Mostly used for window blinds and aprons, but many good qualities are made for dress purposes. A fabric is shipped to India as holland," which is all cotton, woven from white warp and blue and white grandrelle weft, about 26-in. to 30-in. wide, 52/56 reed, 44/52 picks, 20's warp, 2/36's weft.

Many fabrics are shipped to India under this term and most of them are of the imitation linen style such as: - 34-in. wide, 40 ends and 40 picks per inch, 10's T., 8's W., preparation yams, cotton; also 34-in. wide, 64 ends and 60 picks per inch, 24's T., 16's W., American cotton yams, dyed in several colours. Another cloth to which this term is given is woven 37-in., 72 ends and 72 picks per inch, 22's T., 18's W., dyed and mercerised finish. Most of these fabrics are calender finish only.

Lace was originally a heavy texture more like embroidery and of two kinds, Lacis or "darned netting" and Cutwork. Laces, often worked in gold threads and coloured silks was also called " spiderwork." Lace is purely an English word, derived from the Anglo-Norman lacier, to lace, bind, tie or fasten, etc. The word appears to have been first used in 1519. It is a fabric of open mesh or net formed by crossing and intertwining threads. Lace was originally purely a hand craft, but today it is machine made as well. There are three main classes: - Point lace, pillow lace and machine-made lace. Point Lace - When the term " Point " is applied to a lace fabric it should mean that the lace has been made by the needle with a single line of thread, but it is now given to many machine-made laces. There are numerous laces sold as point laces and each has some feature not possessed by any other, many of these laces are known by the town where they are manufactured. Pillow Lace - These laces are made by intertwining threads on pins fixed in a cushion over a pattern fastened on to the cushion. Many pillow laces are part hand and part machine made such as Honiton, Valenciennes, Irish, etc. Machine-made Laces - There are three principal classes which can be placed (1) warp fabrics; (2) plain nets; (3) Levers' laces. Warp Laces - This is the earliest form of lace produced on a machine which was the invention of the Rev. William Lee in 1589, and was an adaption of the stocking frame. A warp lace is a series of upright threads that twist upon each other to form a fabric. There are no crossing threads. They are made in widths up to 10-in. and are the cheapest laces made. Plain Nets - John Heathcote, the inventor of the bobbin-net machine in 1809, laid the foundation of the machine-made lace trade. These are formed by a diagonal bobbin thread intertwining with the upright warp threads so that when the web is taken off the machine the mesh is honeycomb shaped. Other shapes followed, such as the square mesh. Cotton, silk, mohair and rayon are all used in making plain nets. Standard plain nets are as follows: - Brussels Net - Close mesh, specially selected fine yarns, in widths 36-in. to 80-in. The mesh varies up to 20 holes per inch. Both stiff and soft finish. Mosquito Net - Made in many qualities and closeness of mesh and from 54-in. to 108-in. Cable Net - Made up to 300-in. wide and from coarser yarns than other laces. This fabric is used as the ground fabric for curtains, etc. Bretonne Net - A very fine fabric, close mesh and finer yarns than Brussels, very soft and smooth finish. Point d'esprit - Fabrics with spots at regular distances. The yarns are not as good a quality as Brussels. Finished both soft and stiff. Paris Nets - Very stiff finish, used by the millinery trade for foundation work. Illusion Nets - A star-shaped mesh fabric, very fine yarns, used for veils and evening dress purposes. Silk Mechlins, or Tulles - A net more round than square in mesh and made from fine silk yarns. Malines is a tulle made in Belgium. Chantilly, or Silk Brussels - Similar to Brussels, but made from black dyed silk yarns. Chambray Nets - A finer all silk net than Chantilly. Levers' Lace Fabrics - These are various fancy laces and are produced on the lace machine fitted with a jacquard. Samuel Draper of Nottingham combined the jacquard with the lace machine in 1813. John Levers invented the machine. Varieties of these laces are Cluny laces. Torchons, Maltese lace. All-overs and numerous others.

A heavy smooth cloth, made all wool or from cotton warp and wool weft. Woven 76-in. to So-in, to finish 50-in. to 56-in. wide, and about 24-oz. per yard. The cloth is raised and cropped and very heavily milled. The 2 & 2 twill is used, especially in the all-wool styles. Meltons, kerseys and tweeds for coatings and uniforms are very similar in appearance when finished. Fig. A gives a popular design on 4-shafts and 8 picks, made 82-in. wide to finish when milled and dyed 58-in. wide, wool yarns 28 yards per dram warp and 22 yards weft. The warp is openband (twist to the left) and the weft crossband (twist to the right) and soft spun. Reed 4 in a dent 52-ends per inch, 80 picks per inch, weight 32-oz. per yard. Design B gives a cheap style of Melton in which cotton warp and mungo weft is used. Made 80-in. to finish 54-in., 52 ends and 52 picks per inch, 2/40's Egyptian cotton warp, 7 yards per dram mungo weft. This cloth costs about 60 per cent less than the above.

Given to an all-cotton cloth used for many dress purposes, bleached, dyed and printed 35-in./90 yards 124 X 64 per inch, 36's/40's yarns, 22-lb. plain weave. Better qualities have two-fold warp or two-fold warp and weft, generally 2/80's Egyptian, which greatly resemble Lancashire poplins. ———————— A term that in many districts was used to indicate garments worn by the clergy. It is a stout wool cloth. Made from fine merino yarns, and heavily milled and - finished with a dress face. It has a velvety feel and a silky gloss. A 90-in. in the loom gives 56-in. finished. One quality is made 32 X 40 per inch, from 26 skeins warp and weft. Dyed black or indigo. Another type is made from West of England woollen yams in very wide widths, and shrunk during finish about 33 per cent. Woven 2 X 1 twill. Quality varies according to price. It is a superfine, smooth-faced and dense fabric, and considered the perfection in woollen materials.

A large trade is done in cotton cashmeres, which are generally dyed black, although colours are sometimes shown. The following are standard makes: - 56-in. full, 90 yards, 52 X 140, 36's/28's, 43-lb.; 41-in. full, 90 yards, 80 X 104, 36's/40's; 22¹/₂-in. full, 90 yards, 78 X 114, 32's/28's, 25-lb. The weave is 2 X 1 twill, and super weft is used. Another cashmere is made with a cotton warp, which is printed before weaving, and either cotton or wool weft. Used for dress purposes. About 68 X 132, 2/60's cotton, 56's botany. The name is obtained from the Cashmere goat, whose wool was first used to make cashmeres. This wool cashmere is still made in Yorkshire. Such as 56-in., 68 X 140, 54's/18's worsted. A cashmere made for China with a few ends of coloured worsted at each selvedge is known as " Worsted Border Cashmere." A standard quality is made 36-in., 120 yard, 54 X 104, 36's/28's, 12 ends worsted each side. The cloth is dyed and has a special lustrous finish. See also Coburg, Henrietta, Jockey Cloth, Paramatta, which are all cashmeres.

Is made from a twofold cotton warp and schappe silk weft in the 1 X 3 weft twill weave. Finished by raising, cropping and brushing the face of the fabric. Dyed grey and brown and looks like doeskin. Used for collars, trimmings, handbags, etc. The name is derived from the French word " duvet " meaning " down " and is thus meant to be a soft downy fabric. The finishing process is a specialised one as the cloth has to be washed, dyed, raised on the face by emery rollers, cropped, and singed in order',to produce a very soft and velvet finish. Also known as " Mouse-skin." Another variety is made with a worsted warp and tussah weft and slightly raised on the face; weave, 4-shaft twill, 1 X 3 lift, weft face, in 56-in. width.

Is made from a twofold cotton warp and schappe silk weft in the 1 X 3 weft twill weave. Finished by raising, cropping and brushing the face of the fabric. Dyed grey and brown and looks like doeskin. Used for collars, trimmings, handbags, etc. The name is derived from the French word " duvet " meaning " down " and is thus meant to be a soft downy fabric. The finishing process is a specialised one as the cloth has to be washed, dyed, raised on the face by emery rollers, cropped, and singed in order',to produce a very soft and velvet finish. Also known as " Mouse-skin." Another variety is made with a worsted warp and tussah weft and slightly raised on the face; weave, 4-shaft twill, 1 X 3 lift, weft face, in 56-in. width. ———————— A very soft woollen fabric resembling velvet and having a fine short nap that is raised during the process of finishing and gives the material a silky appearance. Used for coats, suits and dresses.

A black dyed cotton warp with alpaca, mohair, or English lustre weft, used for dress purposes. The weave is a 5-end weft twill 3 down and 2 up, as shown at E (See Alpaca). A popular quality is made to finish 50-in. (56-in. grey) from 2/40's black cotton warp, 12's mohair weft, and woven in design. Set 76 ends and 52 picks per inch. Piece-dyed in all colours for dress purposes. (Cross-dyeing).

A very stout twill cloth woven with hard-twisted yarns, generally cotton all through, although wool is sometimes used. It is used chiefly for boot and bag linings when of the twill weave. This style of cloth when figured is used for church furniture. When dyed and of plain weave it is shipped to parts of South America as " Las tings " usually with a stiff glaze finish, and used as trouserings by the natives. Made in various widths and qualities. A popular quality is 24-in., 64 ends and 60 picks per inch, 20's warp, 24's weft. A mixture cloth is made in the five-end satin weave, with 104 ends and 68 picks per inch, 2/50's worsted warp and 16's or 24's cotton weft. The term originally meant a woollen fabric made of combed wool, having two- or three-fold warp and single weft, made 18-in. wide and dyed black.

The French word for velvet. A velour is made for curtains from coarse cotton yarns and piece-dyed. The pile is very stiff and appears on both sides of the fabric. Cotton velours are made from heavier yarns than used for velvets and velveteens, and the weave develops a cord or rib. If this rib is warp way the cloth is termed " long velour," if weft way " gros velour." Generally piece-dyed. The fabrics are intended to stand hard wear. A term used indiscriminately for a variety of cloths with a fine raised finish. The true velour has a smooth surface consisting of a fine dense pile cropped very level.